Ritienne Zammit's A/W 15 collection surprised me. I entered backstage expecting to see highly creative pieces that wouldn't be entirely wearable, that would be more of an artistic expression than anything else. I was pleasantly surprised - the creativity is still there but this collection is much more wearable, a lot cleaner than her previous work, a touch more refined and a touch more mature.
The collection is inspired by Maltese patriotism and poets, especially by Dun Mikiel Xerri a Maltese patriot who was involved in an unsuccessful revolt to overthrow French rule under Napoleon Bonaparte. He was captured and later executed. Other names made an appearance within the collection, namely Manwel Dimech and the national poet Dun Karm who wrote our National Anthem.
If I had to pick my favourite thing about any of Ritienne's collection is how strong her story always is, the theme and the colour flow have absolutely no holes in them, at no point will you ever stop and think 'Wait, where did that pop out from?' This collection is no exception and I loved her colour palette of grey, white, pinks and teal.
There's also lots of symbolism to be found within the different pieces - newspaper-style prints and slogans, Maltese words, beating hearts, and of course the odd t-shirt with Dun Mikiel's face plastered all over it.
The models wore finger-wave vintage hairstyles and fake moustaches, harking back to the days gone by and the finale piece had one model representing Dun Mikiel Xerri himself, walking down in an ghonella-style jumpsuit made entirely of Maltese writing print. Something else to mention is the dark humour to be found in some of the prints - the heart and face prints feel wistfully comical in an ironic tone.
The models wore finger-wave vintage hairstyles and fake moustaches, harking back to the days gone by and the finale piece had one model representing Dun Mikiel Xerri himself, walking down in an ghonella-style jumpsuit made entirely of Maltese writing print. Something else to mention is the dark humour to be found in some of the prints - the heart and face prints feel wistfully comical in an ironic tone.
The pieces themselves cater for a variety of different shapes and preferences and there's a lot of contrast to be found. The range varies from culottes - combining wool and silver metallic fabrics and pink fur patches, a pink fur coat with different shades of pink and fur styles, tailored jackets and loose fitting shift dresses and palazzo pants.
It is not just the wearability factor that has improved this year but also the quality of the finishing of the product as well as her choice of fabrics. Well done Ritienne - I look forward to the next one.
Photos by Bernard Polidano
All Photos by Bernard Polidano
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